Old thread >>874920
>open source community
>buyfag buyers guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there
>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stufff)
>what kind of filament do I want
>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
>how to calibrate
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo [Embed] [Embed]
>where do I get files to print?
>what programs do you make your own files with
>where to buy genuine hotends
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-hotends (USA E3D reseller)
http://e3d-online.com/ (E3Ds regular site, yuro based)
http://hotends.com/ (genuine J-Head seller)
>where to buy filament
>but anon, there are euros here
give some printing parameters that you used for printing that.
230C extruder + 100C Bed
50 in fill
well it could be bad fillament at the end
was it wobbling during printing?
Lulzbot no longer stock budaschnozzle as they've switched to the Hexagon. RepRapDiscount or Tamarin Tech are distributors for it.
Filaments vastly differ in the temps they need
It looks to me that its slightly over extruding, and that its too hot.
Follow this video
Its essentially telling you to find a print thats a single wall, and then manually change the temp with Gcode after so many layers, and keep doing it till you have a huge range of temps. Youll physically see which temps look correct and which dont
Reposting my answer from previous thread.
Looks like it may be a few things:
Low retraction in your slicer
and what >>885556 >>885575 said, extruder temps and e-steps
Also why is one side discolored?
can't believe there are 3dprinter as shitty as this.
never underestimate some people's ability to fuck shit up
Hey, you forgot to add these to the OP:
>Add these to the OP when you make this thread next time:
And the old thread is far from dying, this is a slow board.
>i am a painter
>i work with near a welder
>fucking tired of putty'ing every weld
>go tell the welder
>"dude your welds are shit, you ever weld before?"
>ive welded for caterpillar for years, why whats wrong?"
>"your welds are shit, more veracity than filler material for fucks sakes"
>+10000 life points to him for his reply:
>"yea i noticed, wasnt sure what was causing it so i just carried on"
Is there any g-code visualisation (such as in Repetier-Host, Cura, Slic3r,...) that would also show fan activity?
I would like to see on which layers or parts of layers the fan is turned on.
Getting a printer to lay plastic is easy
Getting a printer calibrated so it prints decent is not so easy, especially if you are just starting.
Its me again (>>885563)
Why does my prints bases warp like this?
forgot that warping only happens on one side of the print
how are you adhering to the bed? masking tape works nicely
Your first layer is shit. Lower your hotend for better adhesion, which will help with your warping if you're heating it properly.
Is there any difference at all between masking (yellow) and painters (blue) tape?
Ordering my first machine. I have a choice on nozzle sizes for the "Allmetal V6" hotend. Which size should I get?
0.2,3,4 or 0.5mm?
I think that most printers have 0.4mm nozzle. I have 0.5mm and I have found some objects on thingiverse with some details, that I can't print, because they are too small. So, if I were you, I would take 0.4mm.
With smaller sizes, you can make better details, but it takes longer to print. Also the nozzle size determines your maximum layer height. Layer height shouldn't be more than 80% of nozzle diameter. (with 0.2mm nozzle your max layer height is 0.16mm ) This also means that it takes longer to print.
I suggest you take 0.4mm, unless you plan to print very small details.
Read about how to level your bed. Use the method with a piece of paper. It works very well to get consistent results.
Masking tape might not come off as cleanly and probably won't last for as many prints (it'll rip and such when removing prints). That means more replacing and more glass cleaning.
3m scotch blue tape works best
has anyone tried using hydro-printing to add graphics to their 3D prints?
how much does it cost to get started with this?
can you make custom prints or do you need to use pre-printed material?
Seems doable If you are willing to put the effort into it.
I think the issue is that you guys are using totally DIY printers. I'm a faggot who uses plug 'n play printers. Everything is calibrated right out of the box and my prints come out perfectly.
Fixed by releveling surface.
which printer do you have? Pros and cons?
looks cool. Would be nice if they made the software available tho.
What should I look for in calipers/micrometers for printer calibration purposes?
I used a manual micrometer in college, but it seems there are more advanced options now(eg. digital calipers).
I want to pick up a kit since I have a small amount of disposable income right now.
The bufag guide gives this link for a kossel kit:
I went ahead and looked at Aliexpress and I found this guy for about 250. It has aluminum rails, and if I'm correct, all the injection molded stuff I could print replacement parts for in case of a break.
Seems like no matter what I can only really afford a Chinese kit.
I also looked at some Prusa I3 kits that were made of acrylyc. But from what I understand, acrylic isn't all that great and I'll just end up replacing it later.
So my quesiton: are either of these okay for a first printer? Or should I just pick up the SunHokey Prusa and replace the body as I go? I'm not afraid to tinker with the fucker if that goes into the decision making process. I just don't have "tons" of disposable income while I'm in school.
Every printer needs tuned periodically, every roll of filament is different.
Just because your baseline calibration is marginally better, people starting from scratch have a much easier time getting great prints in the long run.
To talk shit about someone learning the ins and outs of printing while you just click a "high quality" setting is laughable
get the folgertech kit, its much better than any chink kit
I bought one of these about two months ago.
They are not worth it. I have yet to get it to work.
Get a Wanhao i3 instead. It's almost the same price and it comes pre-assembled and is metal construction.
The REV B folgertech kits are pretty good because they have tweaked everything to be improved.
>They are not worth it. I have yet to get it to work.
What problems have you had?
Just get some harbor freight ones, they are plenty accurate and repeatable for anything 3d printer related.
How accurate would a GT2 belt be for the Z axis, still in the process of printing and modifying parts for my coreXY build, heard conflicting information about how accurate belts can be for raising and lowering the z stage.
Z-axis belt is not ideal for a Cartesian printer. The slack in the belt doesn't go well with the sub-millimeter movements despite gravity helping it out. Leadscrews are much preferred because of the higher rotation to height ratio.
Have i3, want to replicate
What electronics vitamin set do I get? Everything on ebay/amazon/aliexpress looks chinese and sketchy. Or should I just go ahead and source part by part?
Go part by part. I just put a machine together off ebay and it was easy. They group many of the parts together.
If you want to go piecemeal look up:
heated bed kit
dc power supply
whatever framing and linear movement setup you decide upon
I personally used extrusions and makerslide for mine with threaded rods for the z axis. I'm building a gantry setup for my new printer.
How do you get a sheet of PEI to lay flat? I didn't pay close enough attention to mine and it bows up in the middle. Any object larger than 5 inches had bed adhesion problems and it will warp. I don't have a heated build chamber so that's not really an option at the moment. I bought a thicker sheet of PEI (0.09) and it's also bowed.
I figured I will try to get it to adhere to a sheet of glass concave side up so the edges are pulled down to flatten it out. Is that a viable method?
I need to drill a few holes into a tape measure. Is a 3d printed dremel drill press strong enough to drill through 0.11mm of sprint steel?
I wouldnt think its too hard to drill through it.
On the other hand, ive never found dremel drill presses that useful let alone using a ton of plastic to print one
Damn, so my prusa i3v still can't print parts on size. Outside dimensions are less than .005" oversize and a .25" hole comes out .025" undersized. I have a .5mm head and using slic3r manually have my widths set to .5mm and i'm printing at .2mm layers.
I've turned down my extruder steps and can accurately print the thin wall test but still can't print fitted parts.
What filament are u using?
Do you mean in general, or are you trying to ask someone in particular?
Personally, I've got like 5 different kinds. I mostly just buy whatever's cheap.
It's PLA 3mm (actually closer to 2.9)
I did just increase my x and y steps to split the difference a bit.
I just now printed this with zero infill and managed to cram them together. I'm still trying out some test parts but it looks like I've done what I can with the slicer and just need to very finely tune these steps.
I was asking the poster above.
You should probably reply to them so they'll notice easier.
Do you have smaller nozzle to try?
nope, just this .5mm jhead
the piece i'm testing and measuring is just a .5" cube with a .25" hole through it. my latest print of this puts the perimeter dead on, and the hole is now between .005" and .010" undersized.
Can you post a close up picture of the printed object? May be there are some clues there.
welp, I was finally about to print those fitted parts with infill and still have them fit together, so i guess that's the best i can expect.
also i've been printing my test cube at half height to save time.
now my only complaint is that the corners bulge out a bit
So I see some nice software recommended in the OP. Would anyone mind giving a run down of what might be easy to start with?
Would be awesome if one of them would work well for CNC laser cutting as well.
u wot m8? i literally called myself a fag for using a plug n play printer. I respect your /diy/ approach to 3d printing, after all that is what this board is all about
badass cad skillz
forgot to answer the rest of the question, the da vinci is the plug n play printer with the largest build volume for the lowest price ive seen and its ridiculously easy to use, the catch is that they recoup the money by making it only work with their own brand chipped cartridged filaments that is like 1.5x the price of raw filament.
>now my only complaint is that the corners bulge out a bit
Did you maybe try to set custom settings for first layer so it sticks to the surface better ?
Need a quick advice in sight from some one with experience.
Print quality, speed,..
1.75 PLA vs 3mm PLA filament Cons and Pluses for each one.
With hotend, extruder nozzle (0.4mm) being the same.
>It's PLA 3mm (actually closer to 2.9)
>I did just increase my x and y steps to split the difference a bit.
What? Why don't you just adjust your E stepps?
-3mm has higher extrusion force. Means more likely to skipp stepps or grind filament. (con 3mm)
-3mm +- 0.1mm is better than 1.75mm +- 0.1mm (con 1.75mm).
-1 E-stepp on 3mm is more than 1 E-stepp on 1.75mm (con 3mm).
-3mm does better with bowden setups (con1.75mm but dependent on design).
I mean as an end result. If we use the same setup (same material PLA, the same printer ,,..). is there a difference in overall accuracy and surface finish?
Well the 2 acurracy things work against eachother. If the filament has the same precision in % and not in mm then 1.75mm is better because you need more E-stepps per volume resulting in higher E-resolution.
In short you won't notice a difference unless your 3mm filament drive fails.
1.75 is pretty much becoming standard
um, I have been? also you input the actual filament diameter into the slicer as well.
I'm pretty sure 3mm and 1.75mm are equally common.
Sounded like you were trying to adjust for filament size by changing your xy-stepps.
>I'm pretty sure 3mm and 1.75mm are equally common.
The 3mm standard from when the home reprap community started was based on need. They were using standard rolls of plastic welding rod as filament. It wasnt by design, but by what they had available.
Around 2 years ago when cheap 1.75 home filament started showing up, people started changing over.
Are you really going to run a delta with 3mm filament?
Have you felt the 2 side by side in terms of stiffness?
Sure you can still buy 3mm stuff, but you cant deny that the community as a whole has gravitated towards 1.75 for a while now.
Oh and dont forgot the whole "2.85 vs 3mm" filament horse shit
"3mm" isnt even standardized anymore
na, I turned my e-steps down, and then increased the xy-steps to split the difference between oversized perimeters and undersized holes. I was finally able to fit two pieces together
now i'm printing this for a friend for a school thing. so far so good, but i feel the quality could still be better. guess i'll try out some .1mm layers when i get around to it
What would cause this to happen? Pretty sure it would be some kind of software problem.
I have the home for my x axis set right to the edge of the bed, and no matter how far away I set the object from the home in matter control, it starts printing right at the edge.
How I have it set up in matter control. It should start printing at least 2 cm away from home, but instead, it starts right at the edge
Ive never used mattercontrol
Is mattercontrol just a slicer?
If your homing is correct, it has to be the mattercontrol deal.
Try and move it to the far side of the bed and see what happens
I haven't used MatterControl, but try looking for settings as to how the origin of the bed is set up in the program.
All the settings seem to be in order. I did realize that the object is probably too big for my bed, so I'm going to try printing it in 2 parts
Will it fit if printed at an angle?
It's running a little more smoothly now, but it's still closer to the edge than it should be.
What's some good software to use? MatterControl works pretty well for me except when it started giving me problems today.
Maybe, But I don't mind if it's in two pieces. I've got some craft glue and it's supposed to fit in a desktop drive bay so it's not going to move around very much.
Where to buy good quality filament in EU that it is not over priced or just bought from ali baba and re labled here.
I see E3D has good selection, is there anything else?
Hatchbox from amazon?
F***** 85E for 1kg of PLA!!!!???
I you f***** serious
I didnt actually check the price, I just know its chinese but high quality and is dirt cheap in the US.
Thought maybe some seller would have imported and sold it cheap in other countries aswell.
In Europe you can't just import. You've got to pay taxes to the various crowns or some shit. I don't understand how they can't just buy chinese stuff there.
Go contact Tom Sanladerer. He's based in the EU and a very awesome and knowledgeable guy in the RepRap community.
Here it is VAT + possibly import tax, depending on what you're importing. Those inflate the price around 25%. Other countries have different rates, but generally speaking 25% is pretty high.
>and that its too hot.
abs is 230 to 245, so either he is using pla or he is not too hot
>bought PRUSA i3 off Amazon as my first 3d printer
>only instructions are to go to wiki replikeo for instructions
>instructions frequently do not quite match the parts I received but most of it I can figure out
>go to attach end stop to x end idler
>the part where wires attach to the end stop does not cover the holes for the shank of the screws but is so close that it gets in the way of the heads
>cannot be assembled at all the way instructed
I fucked up buying this kit didn't I?
Is my only option to epoxy these parts together or am I just stupid?
You should post some pictures.
Here is the part in question.
That is wierd.
Maybe you can grind off part of the screw head.
also I found this: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?406,344338,page=2
at the bottom it says, you should bend the connector up.
If you check the pictures: http://www.replikeo.com/en/3d-printer-kits/9-prusa-i3-3d-printer-full-kit-.html
It looks it was done that way.
>grind off part of the screw head
I am a student with limited workspace and few tools. I have no grinder, and nothing to hold the screw steady enough with to use my dremel.
> bend the connector up
How did I not realize I could do that? I thought the connector was attached to the board by more than the four pins. Thanks, that solves that problem. Now onto the other 173...
>abs is 230 to 245
Manufacturers differ in their plastics, just because someone arbitrarily decided based upon one printer and one heat setting doesnt mean its correct for everyone.
Every person should be fine tuning their temps, not just choosing one because they read it online.
Ive had cheap ebay PLA that ran best at 165C which is supposedly 15c lower than standard melting point.
Who /peachy/ here?
you have a dremel but you don't have a vise or a clamp or a file or anything?
Did this happen to anyone else?
Prined ABS in the summer. ~25 celsius in the room, temp set to 230. Printed normally.
In winter ~19 celsius in the room. Had to turn down the extruder stepper fineness by 2x and turn the heat up to 255. Now it wont stutter anymore when printing.
Not uncommon to have to retune stepper drivers/temps a little as ambient temperature varies. With ABS, any warp will also be more pronounced at lower ambient temperatures.
can I play or is this for hobby printing?
I-I would like to play too...
Guy who posted and ordered the $255 model Electron 3D Prusa i3 from 3dprinter onlinerstore.com here. The printer arrived today.
Nothing is missing. Printed parts look good, rods are straight. So far so good
Will star to assemble right away.
The Main board is actually a MKS Base V 1.3.
IT has stepper motor drivers build in.
School or workplace?
Site looked kinda sketchy, glad it actually showed up
Also the X carriage is not like on the pictures they have on their web site.
It is actually two part.
A Printed part with 4 bearings and L shaped metal part that is bolted to x-carriage and holds the extruder.
It happened to me. I have the printer in unheated garage, but in eclosure. Yesterday it was 9°C, so I have turned on heated bed for like an hour, just to heat up the enclosure to 20°C. Still, ABS was no go. Warped and detached from bed.
I guess I am printing PLA during the winter.
Of course you can. What is That? More pics?
So, both Z stepper motors connects to one connector on the board?
work. im co-owner of a business and one of the things we do is 3d printing.
theyre old (2003ish) Stratasys printers. the 768 soluble support model.
quote myself instead of >>890397
there are 5 connectors on the board and there are 5 motors. I assume each one has it own slot.
Hint: 2 of them are for extruders (E0 & E1)
Invest in a ceramic screwdriver
If not you are going to short out your drivers when you tune them.
Then youll be buying a whole new set of electronics because this is a all in one board.
so this board supports double extrusion?
damn I hate this cardboard like protective sticker - film on the frame
Perhaps. The main issue here is that it all comes down to calibration. A well tuned chinese clone can meet or exceed FDM commercial printers. The only difference is about an hour spent calibrating and a slightly wider tooling.
Yes. You will want to see if your PSU will handle it, though.
You were told before you bought the printer it will support two extruders
>So, both Z stepper motors connects to one connector on the board?
Yes. Why would you want to drive both z motors independently? That would cause flexing on the Y axis as it (rolls? ~beta angle changes). If you want auto bed leveling, just move the entire carriage up and down as it moves along X & Y axes.
I plan to use an 400W ATX psu later on
I thought ppl could agree on that. IT doesn't matter any way.
So if both Z axis motors connect to one slot - driver, it means it will probably over heat quite a lot?
There was somebody else who ordered the printer. Did you get it yet?
I don't know. I have seen somewhere a board that had Z1 and Z2 labeled connectors. If you plug both in the same driver it means more power and more heating. We had a little discussion about that in previous thread, so I just wanted to know how it turned out to be.
Im back with the pictures. I need to diy a remote camera so i can monitor these from my phone. Ive only had one fuck up so far with leaving these printer unattended. Pics to follow.
I have 2/3 printers going right now. The 3rd is down for maintenance.
Loss of extrusion on the support material so the model extruder didnt have anything to stick the filament to.
It was a very disappointing monday.
>So if both Z axis motors connect to one slot - driver, it means it will probably over heat quite a lot?
Z axis shouldnt heat up at all, if you have your current set correctly.
It makes a very small turns to both rods, then sits for a whole layer.
Then it makes another small turn, then sits.
There is no chance for it to actually heat up.
Your Y and X axis are both constantly moving for the whole print, so they will heat the drivers up substantially more than the Z will even running 2 steppers.
Just make sure to tune your stepper current well, and maybe blow a small fan on the board. If it didnt come heatsinks, it should be fine.
caveat, auto bed leveling does actually move your Z axis up and down throughout the print to compensate for an unlevel bed.
But youll still be fine
And right ways up and resized to a more manageable size...
"other guy" who ordered the same machine here. Mine arrived Friday and just finished the wiring a few minutes ago. Was about to plug in the PSU when I realized they gave me a plug for DC. Also the gauge of this wire has me worried.
I paid extra for the auto-leveling and metal extruder expecting to get 2 extruders. It was only 1 and the auto-leveler is just an inductive proximity sensor I could have purchased for $4 and a printed piece to attach it that they give you the STL files for.
You were punished by our lord and saviour rms for using proprietary hardware.
Seriously speaking, is that the 5th gen Makerbot with a """smart""" extruder? How is your experience with the thing?
I would find an old computer power cable and cut the end off it. Its grounded and easy as fuck to find.
Thicker gauge wire is easy and cheap to find at any hardware store.
I think its
its a Dimension SST 768 from stratasys
Decided to mark the positive side of my cable with a red marker. The marker exploded, dripping red ink into my PSU. WELP Maybe I should just use a PSU from an old PC.
Anyone know how to remove red permanent ink from cotton?
These threads are usually for people who built a printer, then let it sit on a shelf and talk about them instead of actually using them
but i was told i could play too :c
Probably that was the case for that other particular board. However, it is also a possibility that the two z connectors you saw were for the endstops. The z axis, even at a ridiculous angle with autobed leveling, moves very slowly and doesn't take much torque.
it just seems like unneeded hardware to have a second driver where one can do the job.
I have a very similar i3. If you have the thick aluminum plate, it may be in your best interests to adjust the current to your x axis and add a small fan to cool the axis stepper [moving the bed].
These threads are weird, they go from really active to really slow. Like 2-3 days without a post slow.
Had a dude troubleshooting his Z18 makerbot a few threads back.
Post some impressive prints or something, I mean they are crazy printers
and add a heatsink to that driver.
can I still use this PSU when the ink dries? or do I need to either open it and clean it, or trash it.
I doubt its conductive enough to hurt anything, just makes sure its dry and run it
Theyre primary use right now is to build reproduction enigma cipger machines in 1:1 scale.
Does that count as crazy?
Heres our rotor next to an authentic rotor.
Oh anon, you know me too well.
And yet I want to make another.
>theyre primary use
Really? Im slipping today. Their*
You have cotton in your PSU?
Why exactly are you replicating enigma machines?
Im honestly curious as to what the point is?
btw, the Imitation Game is a fucking great movie
Because people want them and pay lots of money for them. Thats it. Oh and theyre cool.
My partner built the first one as a hobby over a couple years and then found that people wanted to buy them. We have sold 11 so far.
We sent one to Germany which may or may not have been a good idea...
Aside from the stickers and control boards, this is 100% printed.
Damn son, looks very very nice
What filament is it?
Straysys using some crazy plastics or what?
The marker dripped on my pants as well as my PSU.
they call it ABS+
it melts at slightly over 280c and is supposed to be stronger than regular abs.
its expensive as fuck and we want to use something cheaper. i dont know what the support material is but it dissolves in a chemical bath and leaves the model intact.
i wish i could just run plain abs through it but i have a feeling it will just turn to carbon or catch fire or something. i would rather pay $40 a kg instead of $200 for 56.3 cuin which i assume is a kg. i also think the abs+ is 1.6 instead of 1.75mm.
theyre real dicks about it.
Was it sprayed with truck bed liner or something? That surface is rather bumpy and I don't see any layers.
I read citrus juice might also work
Pic related. two Z connectors
Ink can usually be removed with the same thinner/liquid that ink is made of. So, if it is water based ink, you can remove it with water, If it is alcohol ink, you remove it with alcohol, For anything else: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_thinner
Check marker label for ingredients. I got some inject printer ink on my hands once, I cleaned it with isopropanol and nitro thinner. But this things are quite harsh to the skin.
For removing from clothes: The problem is that paint goes really deep in the fibres - capillary action or something. Soaking and rinsing in paint thinner could work, but you risk discolouration and fibre damage. First try soaking and washing in water with some heavy duty soap.
The other solution is to paint whole pants in that colour.
This is fucking amazing. I am really fascinated by mechanical machines, But when I try to understand them, my head starts to hurt. I hope one day I will have time to 3D model and print Curta calculator.
What is the price and how long does it takes to print one?
what a weird board
I dont see any reason at all to have a specialized "2Z" board
Maybe if you are using some really heavy oz steppers at a high current
we havent calculated the total time yet but its somewhere around 150 printer hours. that doesnt include assembly of the boards and wiring harness or assembly of the total machine.
they sell for $1500
Anyone here buy a makerfarm peagus yet? If so thoughts on it, thinking about getting it as my second printer.
There was one guy who bought one as his first printer, and complained he didnt get all the right hardware the first shot.
Dunno if he is still around though, never saw any finished pics or prints
Back. I plugged it in, tested the motion of the steppers and worked great. Decided to heat it up to push some ABS through. At about 200C the extruder started smoking. Immediately unplugged it and it continued to smoke for several minutes afterwords. Is this oils from the factory burning off, or do I have a problem here?
Where exactly did it start smoking at?
The extruder and hotend are different parts.
Did the Hotend start smoking?
I could see there being some oil in there or something because they throw them together and let them sit
If your stepper is smoking, thats not a good thing obviously
I couldn't tell. But the stepper wasn't moving. I was just per-heating it.
Does the knob on your LCD turn all the way around? Mine only makes about half a turn n stops. Makes navigating the menu next to impossible.
looks like its the standard reprap LCD
it should spin freely, there are no stops
Id try preheating it again, but with your stepper unplugged and see if its still smoking. Hand feed some filament through
Automotive crinkle paint.
The germans did something similar.
Removed the stepper all together and pre-heated it again. With the stepper removed I could see smoke was clearly coming from the thermistor. It doesn't show up on camera but there's a few drops of what I assume is oil in those clear insulating tubes.
Also, knob for LCD was screwed on too tight. managed to find the hidden nut and readjusted it so it spins more freely now. All looking good so far.
If those insulating tubes are PTFE, it might be better not to inhale the smoke.
PTFE doesnt burn till like 280c, so if its reading correctly it wouldnt come close to burning
Sounds like there is just some oil on it for whatever reason, when they made it
I want to print on PEI. What's the best way to do it? Just clamp it down?
mine rotates just fine
Can't reliably use a marker, but thinks he'll be ok 3d printing ... Please continue.
did your z axis polished rods came to long . need to cut down my for about 20mm
Also it is ok for nozzle to be this off the bed when touching end switch? (in both x and y axis)
Also after installing Auto level sensor, it si only like 1mm above the bed when nozzle it touching heat bed. Too little?
I switched my Z polished rods for the X rods and it turned out perfect size. I don't know about those end stops. With end stops only on 1 side I don't know what purpose they'll serve. Maybe calibration?
The leveling sensor needs to be 2mm above the nozzle but you don't want the nozzle touching the bed. You should be able to slide a piece of paper under it with a little bit of drag but no tearing. The M8 wrench they gave me is 1.82mm thick. Combined with a blank piece of paper it's 1.99mm.
I'm still cleaning oil out of my thermistor. It kept smoking after 5 minutes and started turning black and viscous. Decided it's better to wash with soapy water than get the house all stinky.
Did you get any instructions how to set up electrical part?
Just this pic which you gotta tilt your head sideways if you already mounted your motherboard to the acrylic frame. But it worked perfectly first time. Double check the 110-220 switch on your PSU before you power it. Mine was set wrong. Might want to buy a grounded power cable and thicker gauge wire too.
ok everything connected.
Switch the thing on. Blue led blinks then red led is on.
What now. No instructions what so ever included.
On the other note. Does it matter how you connect + - of the heating bed and hot end?
Cant find out what is + and what is -.
there's full instructions in the SD card. Not organized tho. I'd say pre-heat it and manually push some plastic through. Then configure Cura with the setting provided, generate some, gcode and do a test print. I recommend downloading the newest version of Cura from their webpage, the version they provide is out of date.
Right now I'm trying to do a test print but nothing is sticking to my heat bed.
Heating elements aren't polarized.
You connect your board to your computer with a USB cable and install drivers if necessary. Find a test cube stl and use a slicer to get your gcode. Send it to your printer using your host to upload or stream the gcode. Depending on which host you have, you might need to set your baud rate and com port.
my SD card came clean. Nothing on it.
Also when you plug the printer to AC and the red light is on. Should LCD be on to? Mine is still black.
Are you using printers tape or glas on a bed?
A will give a printer tape a try.
The printer's website might have a config file that'll make things easier. I don't have a screen myself, but I'm thinking it's not powered because the config isn't set up.
>>890666 (hail satan)
3Ms 468MP adhesive works great to bond PEI to glass - it's what I used.
full manual here
Tried painters tape. Tried readjusting the height. I think enough material isn't being printed. Or it could be drafts as I'm printing next to an open door. I'll try moving it and try again.
Did you get the led display cables mixed up? One is labeled EXP1 and the other EXP2. Labels are on PCB for the motherboard and the LED board in very tiny print.
What does the tape do? I bought a sheet of PEI and it is not flat. It is curved.
The tape is double-sided and holds the PEI flat to the substrate, eliminating the curve.
What colors are you guys printing in today?
We're running nectarine right now.
Still trying to get ABS to stick to my new printer. But I ordered some glow in the dark PLA in the hopes it'll be easier. If it works I'll do some Halloween stuff with it. Will post results tomorrow night.
heated bed? aqua net extra hold worked great on my solidoodle.
heated aluminum plate. It's a pain to remove so I don't want to get it messy. I ordered some kapton tape and if that's not enough I'll start applying adhesives over the tape. Hairspray, gluesticks, abs sludge. In that order.
clean it with acetone. you dont have to remove it to clean it.
i didnt have to clean mine but maybe every 5 prints. i also used kapton tape and a piece of glass over top of it. then sprayed with hairspray.
>spray with aqua net
>wait for it to dry
>clean with acetone and paper towel (thick blue shop towel kind)
>respray aqua net
i rarely had peeling.
I already built a bed using PEI, tape, and glass, and it didn't come out flat.
Me again. I managed to setup everything mechanical and electrical but I have a problem with calibration, firmware. I installed the drivers, computer and cure recognize it. I also installed arduino editor but have no idea what to fix in it. I m not using auto level option, but a normal z axis endstop. I did it like it says in manual with a sheet of paper. When I use the function too home all axis it does ok. Nozzle is above printed bed so that I can slide a sheet of paper under it. But than when I want to print something the nozzle dig in to the print bed.
Do you know what setting is wrong?
Bummer. How thick is your PEI? It worked for me for a 2mm thick sheet on glass.
Is there a setting for z offset?
I don't know for Cura, but Slic3er has a setting for Z Offset. This setting is then used in g-code. So, check your settings and you can also check g-code.
There might be an option to set offset in firmware. In Repetier it is called: #define Z_MIN_POS 0. (I have never changed that, so I am not sure how it works, as far as I understand it is meant for setting offset).
Did you calibrate nozzle height when it was cold or hot? Your problem might be thermal expansion?
currently everything is set like this when I home.
x (-15) (0 is at the left edge of the build plate)
y (-45) (0 is at front plate of the print bed)
z ( 0 ) the paper goes under the nozzle
Is this ok.
There is a z offset setting at it set 0.5 by default.
It could be that I had some setting wrong in Cura when making G code?
Z_MIN_POS is set at 0
>There is a z offset setting at it set 0.5 by default.
Where is this set? On printer or on some program on computer (Cura, Repetier-Host)?
Can you change that? If you set it to zero does it lift up or down?
You can open g-code with notepad or Repetier-Host. Find first G1 Zxxxx value and compare with height that you set for first layer.
(For example: First layer height: 0.3mm --> g-code: G1 Z0.300)
for some reason the center of the bed is 0.15mm higher than corners where I was doing the bed leveling
did a dry run and appears to do well. Not plowing the bed any more.
test print time!
How did you fix uneven bed?
Will print some calibration cubes tomorrow. Had to go socialize today :/
I didn't yet will provably print so small at center of the bed that it wont matter. I think it is because of the thermistor in the center of the heat bed bending the Alu plate at the top.
>Had to go socialize today :/
Eww, how awful
their grey seems a bit softer than my other abs's, anyone know of a guide to abs pigments and how they affect performance? I've heard they affect extrusion temps but now I'm worried about wear/structure
Is there anyone here who works in the industry? Do you know that feel when someone comes in with an almost impossible to print 3d-model and wants the prototype to be done by FDM even though we recommend laser sintering. Of course the price should be around 20€ for a 250g piece and it has to be printed in ABS. Fucking media ruined everything by hyping this technology too much.
Also ruined stl's. The worst I've seen could only be opened by notepad ++.
The worst are warhammer people who want mini figures and expect them to be the higest quality from abs.
New printer has arrived!
And it works!
>And it works!
Was there a question on its condition when you bought it?
think my school has a coulpe of these
how much did you pay for it?
ok me again
Did this first print yesterday and got a massive block somewhere in the middle of the heatbreak. I clean it today and also isolated the hot end so there is less heat going up to heat break.
I don't know the exact setup but the temperatures were around 205°C hotend 45°C heat bed room temperature was around 20 °C
Print speed was around 30mm/s, layer height was 0.2, flow as at 170% (this probably needs calibration if it is off by this much?) Nozzle is 0.3 mm
So can someone give a quick run down on what setting should I use to print this 12 x 12 mm cube? Printing PLA
Yes. It didnt come with a hard drive.
Stratasys makes people destroy the hard drive when they end their use of the printer. Something like that at least. Also these printers are 10 years old. Some work some dont. We pulled the hard drive and control boards from one of our working printers that was in bad shape and transplanted them into that printer to make it work. Its probably the most in-calibration printer we have now too. The old printer that donated parts is now the parts machine instead.
$2000 including freight.
Our cheapest one so far. I went to michigan 3 weeks ago to pick up another one for $2500.
>I clean it today and also isolated the hot end so there is less heat going up to heat break.
How? Post pics.
>flow as at 170%
That is wierd, but it also depends on your steps/mm settings. Put it on 100% and then follow this guide to set correct steps/mm:
I taped the Alu block with kapton tape and added teflon (pluming) tape to the part of the heatbreak that goes to the hot end
cant make the cube to stick to the bed anymore.
I m using this settings on the picture
I'm getting a lot of filament curling on the nozzle
i don't use any bed heat and just put masking tape down.
I used this guide for fine tuning my steps
you pretty much print a test piece at 95% infill and the infill should have lines in it.
but yeah, your flowrate shouldn't be that high
Bed temperature might be a bit low. What are you using for adhesion?
I use white wood glue based on PVAc and 60°C for first layer, then 55°C.
Have you done the steps/mm calibration?
Also the distance between nozzle and bed could be too big?
I did turn the bed heating off and adhesion is much better now. But I have problem with uneven filament flow I think
it does print ok the skirt or the shell, but it gets bad when it starts to fill the bottom
what printer do you have? my i3v i've calibrated to 828 steps per mm for the extruder
can you try another slicer?
I have electron 3d prusa i3 with stock extruder.
I'm using cura. Where in FW do you see that?
very interesting. Is drive wheel maybe grinding the filament?
I think he has this: https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/electron-3d-prusa-i3-kit
He has direct drive, while you have geared drive, so his steps/mm value should be much smaller.
increased the flow to 300 and temperature to 220 C
Print speed is 20mm/s
IT is noticeably better but still good. Looks like I really need to adjust the extruder.
yeah, probably still needs turned up quite a bit. you should be able to find the esteps via the LCD panel
My X-belt on my Prusa i3 are buzzing whenever it moves to do infill (at a higher speed).
Do they need to be tightened or what?
more often I find that buzzing comes from rubbing. whenever mine start to buzz i check to make sure it's not rubbing one side of the pulley/idler. may not be the case for you but something to check
looks like some serious control boards in there
Cool that you got it running switching shit around
You should check the bed level every time you use it.
Does it have enough current?
Check that the gears don't have ground filament in the teeth. Mind your current. Calibrate your z axis. Does the cold end ever kick or jerk?
IT appear that the extruder is grinding the filament. So either the nozzle is to small (for the selected printing speed (20mm/s), or the idler is not making enough pressure on the filament.
question for the other guy who ordered the same elektron prusa i3.
How are our prints?
Did you have any similar problems?
Did you have to calibrate (other than bed)?
Did you change FW much?
checked the extruder.
When ordered to extrude 40mm it actually extruded 38mm.
But could this cause so much under extrusion as seen on the pictures above?
Are you the same person?
Some causes for grinding filament:
1.- Not enough force on idler
2.- too much force on idler (I read about that somewhere, I am not sure if it is true)
3.- clog in the nozzle
4.- Temperature too low
5.- Bad cold end/heat break (I had this problem: It was printing fine for 30 to 40 minutes, then it started under extruding and then it stopped extruding, while drive gear was grinding the filament. It is sort of ceramic hot end, so it didn't have a fan like metal hot ends. I solved it with adding a fan on cold end. )
What I would do: First clean drive wheel and idler of plastic shavings. Assemble back together. Disable the stepper motors (In Repetier Host: round icon with crossed motor ). Heat the hot end to desired temp., when it heats up, push filament with your hand. It should go quite easily and the motor should spin. If this works, you can eliminate cause 3 and 4.
-Force on idler: probably with trying.
- Bad cold end /heat break: Touch the cold end with your finger while printing (be careful - do not get hurt by any moving parts, don't touch the hot end). Glass transition temperature is for PLA 60°C, so the cold end should be much cooler than that.
This is not very bad. That is Flow setting 105% in Cura or Extrusion multiplier 1.05 in Slic3r
yup same person.
I did adjusted the extruder speed to 105,.....
Well will probably have less problems when 0.4 nozzle arrives. currently using 0.3.
This Chinese one is of poor quality. Even the hole is not in the middle
HMm adjust the extruder to 105,...Run a test request 60mm of filament , 63mm of filament comes out. Re run the calculation. get 94,.... Set 94,... in FW. Run a test again request 60mm of filament , 56.5mm of filament comes out. Now I set it to 100 to see how much it comes out.
Its very important to not over tighten the idler on your extruder
You want it barely leaving marks in your filament. Not deep cutting no deforming.
Just tight enough it wont slip.
Holy shit, that nozzle
So the latest print.
Need to use brim because I have some problems with print coming of bed later in the print. Even the with the brim the part came off partly. The bed was at 26 C. Probably need to heat it up later in the print to prevent the print to came off.
The bottom (1.2 mm) was printed at 5 mm/s at 220 C
The middle part was printed at 10mm/s and the top (last 5mm) part was printed at 6mm and temperature of 230 and flow at 130 I think.
Better then previous prints but still far from good. Under extrusion seem to be the problem
Also the dimensions are around 15.03 for x and y axis and 14.6 for z axis (probably due to print coming off on one side mid print )
Don't forget: inconsistent filament diameter. I've had issues before. Mic'ed last half of a bad roll every 12 inches. Spec'ed at 1.75mm, found areas as big as 1.9mm.
Why are you fucking with flow settings?
Adjust your extruder Esteps, flow is only for very fine tuning.
Make sure you are not over tightening your idler
It will grind, it will deform making uneven extrusions, it will cause undue pressure on your stepper which can cause missed steps
And if both of those are ok, make sure your nozzle isnt clogged with something. Heat it up 20C higher than you usually would and then just hand feed filament hard to hopefully clear a small clog. If not it takes disassembly of the hotend.
If it cuts any deeper than this (and IMO this is on the deep side, especially fir 1.75) then you are deforming for filament causing variations in the size when it hits the hotend.
Look for M106 Sxxx (fan on, with speed xxx)
Look for M107 (fan off)
If using ABS delete all M106, fans suck with ABS.
So I'm trying to start a small online business selling 3D printed products.
What printer do you believe would be best for me to use? I have $1,500 to start this business up. I know its unrealistic, but I'll use an easy website builder, buy some ads here and there, and print orders as they come while offering free shipping. The product market is aimed towards stoners, degenerates, and edge lords.
I'm a poor fag and I'm hoping to make the most of this money before my Bipolar gets the best of me and makes me blow it all on drugs. I'll be moving across a state soon to NY if that helps, living with five other people in a one bedroom apartment. I mention this because of potential printer noise/ventilation requirements. So far, I'm interested in using PLA as Acetone Vapor Treated ABS isn't the best right now.
This also seemed cool. Just mentioning it.
Extruder is calibrated fine. I changed the flow settings because I got a bit more filament through the nozzle.
How fast can one print with 0.3 nozzle?
That is fine
Is your slicer calibrated?
If you epoxy it, you want be able to replace it very easily if it fucks up later. Try dry fitting it with the middle screw hole instead. As long as it hits the switch at the same point along the axis, it doesn't really matter if you have it mounted a half an inch off. You could also drill new holes in the frame to use the other screwholes instead.
I use cura (last stable version). The settings are ok to y knowledge. Will post them when I m back home from work.
I have this feeling that filament is melting to high up in the heatbreak/teflontube.
posting expert and advance settings for printing 10x10x10mm cube
>E-steps per 1mm filament :0
Is this correct setting?
Also raise your speed to 20mm/s
that is set at 100.1 at firmware
I put together a Tantillus 3d printer, but I'm having this issue with horizontal banding, and I'm not sure what's wrong.
the same problem occurs on parts that aren't thin walled. It just under-extrudes some layers or something. Is this maybe a temperature control issue with the extruder? Or maybe I'm trying to print too fast?
I don't think it's an issue with the z-axis moving uneven amounts, I got a ballscrew on the motherfucker.
What software are you using to run it? Some programs have sliders for extrusion/print speed adjustment.
I'm using Slic3r and Repetier host. There's a slider for speed, I can try slowing it down.
The XY axes can go pretty blazingly fast, but maybe the bowden extruder with a small nozzle can't lay down the plastic enough. though It seems to do fine most of the layers, I don't know.
So I slowed it down to a painful 50% speed, but it did not seem to help. the full speed print is sitting on the right.
Speed does not seem to be the problem.
belts not tensioned properly, maybe printer moves on the table too
It doesn't seem to be a mechanical problem. I switched to Cura engine, and that seems to have fixed that problem. now it's just putting down too much plastic and the corners are staying molten and curling up. Not too much mystery to that, though.
check your z rod/screw/belt.
It seems to be off because it is moving more than it should.
In fact check all your belts.
The problem seems to go away when I switch to cura. I think it's some kind of issue with Slic3r.
On the plus side, I guess I can just use cura from now on and call it solved.
Hi everyone I'm trying to start a site/business where I sell 3D printed stuff for a very low cost to potential customers. I'm hoping by doing this I will improve my ability to cater to specific niches and better understand the kind of stuff people might want to be made for them using a 3D printer like the one I have. Basically I just want to get a taste of what it's like to run a business and have that responsibility. Can anyone here critique my site and tell me what more you might want from it so I can add it in? One thing I plan to do is make a price calculator and a built in 3d model upload function, but for now all negotiations are available through e-mail which I have access to 24/7. I don't expect to become rich off this but I simply like the idea of having a 3D printing business because of all the possibilities it presents. As of right now I haven't spent a ton of time marketing the site so I haven't sold anything, but I have made a lot of things for friends including War Hammer 40K figurines and the like.
Does the fan housing resonate loydly?
What machines are you using? Be aware that consumers are stupid and expect way too high quality. Companies (usually) need shit just done quickly and know what the quality will be.
Thank you so much for responding. My machine is a cheaper model at around 900$ called the Da Vinci AIO by XYZ printing, but it has a scanning function as well. I'm aware that it has some negative reviews but it's mostly because people using it are inexperienced and just getting into 3D printing and expect it to work perfectly right away. I'm willing to acetone treat and paint models for people if they want it done, I almost feel compelled to do it if it's an art related request or a figurine. How would I get attention/business from bigger companies so I can make bulk models for them? I'm thinking some kind of ad-campaign would be good.
I just realized that only having one machine isn't gonna cut it for large companies, however I am going to invest in another printer soon, maybe two and possibly a programmable CNC.
I'd like to see some quality samples.
Looks like you have two sides here, printing and modeling. Seems like the printing space is filling with competition quick, a handful of staples stores will print though i haven't seen one.
The modeling also has me intrigued but doubtful. If you're modeling a technical piece, either someone already has blueprints and then you just have a matter of translating that into a 3d model for them. If it's not a technical part then you're getting into artistry which would be touch to scale with a business. And i doubt scanning parts and printing them it's as easy as it sounds and doubt it'll keep up quality.
So why the Da Vinci? Those turnkey solutions are proprietary and I believe most of them require you to buy their own "filament cartridges" as well. Unless you plan on using them for support to the fullest extent, I'd never build my business to run on top of someone else's if I had the choice.
what were your temps getting down to? after much trouble shooting I finally noticed a "cold extrude prevented" error message cause my i3v was getting down to 170C and would stop extruding but carry on the other motions. It took me forever to notice and that looks exactly what's going on.
Yeah obviously at the time I was not thinking this far ahead, I didn't plan to use it for a business which is why I'm looking into investing in a lulzbot, but it can still be used for the scanning function which for me was the selling point, I also have the new kinect hooked up to my PC that does more free form scans if that matters at all, it can be used to scan people and body parts. Lulzbot is also multi-material which is bretty gud. Pretty much any multi-material printer is on my watch list for purchase at this point. That and I'm somewhat interested in the ghost gunner and similar devices. I know that competing with pre-existing organizations is very hard but it can't be utterly impossible especially if I am more flexible about pricing and other variables but who knows.
Also I can hack the machine itself to use other types of filament but whatever. The "modeling" aspect isn't what I was considering a service so much as the literal act of printing an object, making it look nice and shipping it in my case the same way staples does in store as you yourself mentioned except they don't go as far as I would go to please the customer. Staples basically let's you use a 3D printer like they let you use a fax machine LOL. It's kinda like saying I just slaughtered a sheep and I have no idea how to turn it into food/clothing guess I have to take it to someone who can make use of this for me. Well someone can have access to and download like 70GB worth of 3D models but if they don't have access to a 3D printer they can't really do jack shit to make them a physical object now can they? Save for sculpting it from clay or something, but why do that when they can pay like 3-8$ for a complicated figure from a video game that normally costs like $50 if they buy it from an online specialty store or a hobby shop.
There's a setting in your firmware for minimum extrusion temperature below which it will stop power to the extruder stepper to prevent cold extrusion. Find it and change it.
Get a real job dude - what you propose is a pipe dream.
The guy with problems printing here again.
I have a question about z axis moving. On my i3 I can't manually move z axis in steps. Smaller than 0.1 mm. So if I set layer hight in slicer to something like 0.13 or 0.17 will printer z axis actually move by that much or will it approximate to 0.1 or 0.2?
ok found this article.
It literary states each problem I have and what is causing it. I recommend reading if any one have problems with small nozzles (0.3 or smaller ) or want to try to print with small nozzles.
I will stay with 0.4 from now on. Luckily for me 0.4 nozzles with lite6 and some sweets arrived today.
damn forgot the link
I just slowed my printer down. It has no problem keeping its temps up, but just seems like it's slow to react to checking its temps and warming it up as needed. I'd rather change that interval check or temperature tolerance than the minimal extrude temp. Anyway it's not a big enough deal now that i know what it was and can watch for it.
keeping in mind i'm not this guy
how far do you really want to go with fdm printing before going into resin based with lasers/projectors? I've seen a few posts about them but never actually seen anyone post results.
If you don't have "name" and reputation for being able to deliver small batchs of good quality parts with 0.01 mm tolerances then it is quite pointless to hop into it at this point unless your city doesn't have a printing service yet. Mostly the parts we make are housings for electronics and prototypes. Cheap scanners suck so badly that they're basically useless. If you want to make money you have to look for other 3d printing technologies that produce better quality with complex shapes.
>If you want to make money you have to look for other 3d printing technologies that produce better quality with complex shapes.
like these >>890380 i googled these when the anon posted them. they print in .01mm resolution and they arent made with 3d printed parts like hobby printers. these are serious printers.
i havent looked back through the thread but i think he's making replica stuff and thats how he makes money.
I meant other technologies than FDM (or FFF). FDM has its place for certain things but lets be honest, it sucks. There is no need to buy a expensive Stratasys printer when you can build almost as good machine for around 800€ (or 3-10k€ if you want a prebuilt).
I think the only way these hobby printers can be a business is when it's paired up with existing machine shops (or mechanical skilled people) that can then refine parts even further. I've made a prosthetic hand and reamed out the holes to press fit dowel pins. So I see FDM as just a step in the overall process.
Those stratasys machines can be had for $2000 (€1811) in working condition and sometimes less.
Theyre really consistent too.
I want to print a saw tote. Pic related.
I've got access to a printer, but don't know where to start on modeling. I have a drawing of the outline I want. What's the best way to convert my (scanned raster) drawing into the start of a model?
The only complicated geometry is that it needs a round-over along a curved edge. What software can do this and how?
I haven't had much time to work on it. I've had all sorts of problems but by some minor miracle I managed to print 3/4th of a test cube. It came out pretty good. I was impressed. (sorry for camera phone quality pic) Now if I can get it to work 100% of the time.
Still having adhesion problems even with painters tape and PLA. Filament tends to curl when it comes out the nozzle looping back hitting the nozzle, causing a big goopy noodley mess on 1st layer. Turning on auto-calibration causes it to print too low. I got scratches on my aluminum plate in the shape of 1st layer of print now. Can't get drivers to work so been printing off SD card. SD card only registers 30% of the time so need to keep reinserting it. Sometimes right threaded Z rod becomes frozen, throwing them both out of alignment. I suspect bad bearing on polished rod. With so many setbacks I was getting really discouraged. Glad I finally got something to print.
Have you tuned your PIDs?
Is that hitler's head?
that is alot of problems. not sure why you're having first layer problems though, sounds like you're too far off the bed. I too have ooze problems but not much when i'm actually printing
nope, didn't know that was a thing. looking into it now.
Almost any 3D program can do that. Since you're just starting out grab something free like Autodesk 123D if you're more interested in a CAD like environment, or Blender for something that's a little more free-form.
They both have their learning curves but for something like that tote I imagine it'll mostly involve posting your scan as reference and either edge or box modeling from there to get the basic shape. After that it's just a matter of pushing and pulling vertices, adding the occasional edge loop, and probably messing with chamfers, until you get the exact shape you want. Shouldn't be too difficult.
Note to self: print Hitler's head.
I already have Lenin, just need Hitler, Stalin and Mao to complete the set.
I've only used inventor so far. I'd get an outline, extrude it, and fillet the whole thing. a handle like that doesn't seem that hard.
Fuck yeah!!! Finally
Changed the nozzle to 0.4 that I bought from E3D. Cleaned everting. made so other modifications.
And although the bed linear bearing seems completely fucked for some reason (there is so much play and rattling that you can spot it from across the room) the print came out surprisingly good.
This is still with direct drive. Need to design and print the carriage for Bowden set up with Lite6.
This was done with 0.2 mm layer height, Heat at 190C and 40C for heat bed. Speed was 15 mm/s for the bottom and 30 mm/s for the rest. Flow at 100%
For any of you who are just starting out and are having problems with early prints, follow Triffid Hunter's guide (http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide ... it's in the sticky ffs). It'll save you some grief.
You seem to have had a few problems yourself. Congrats on your successful test print!
I picked up some glue sticks and when combined with blue tape it printed perfectly for the first time. Feels good mang
fuck yes! first real print!
lil' glow in dark ghost dude. This stuff glows a long time.
Today is a good day. Congrats!
What is a real job to you? Also why do you assume that I plan to do this stuff full time and make a living off it? That's sort of a bold assumption.
Check if your linear rods are straight, that might be the cause for bearing failure. Or you bought chinkshit.
So does anybody knows >>893973 . Does it depends on the stepper driver motors?
A real job is one with which you can support yourself and, for example, make enough to move out of your parent's basement.
I'm a bold kind of guy.
There is a company in the UK giving out free 3D printers if you buy one of their laser cutters under one of their package plans.
>On my i3 I can't manually move z axis in steps
What do you mean with that - manually? Does that happen when you turn threaded rod by hand? or when you are setting height with that button on 3D printer? or when you are setting height with software on computer (Repetier-Host or similar )?
In general: For stepper motor with step angle 1.8°, 16 microstepping and Acme screw: you get 2015.75 steps/mm. Calculate for yourself: http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
So, this should get you a resolution of 0.0005 mm/step
Manually I mean with the button or in the slicer. So in the auto mode (when printer is printing) it can actually move z axis in steps smaller than 0.1
Does anyone knows how do I get this menu in cura? When I want to print over USB I only get small window with current bed and nozzle temperature, but no option to move axis or set the temperatures. Would really like to have this so I don't have to always use the button on the printer.
that little window is from pronterface. as far as i know, you can't have multiple programs use the same serial interface like that so idk what he's trying to show you there
it looks like it is part of the Cura. A plug in maybe?
well then, fuck that guy for not disclaiming that settings. Cura, while it technically worked, has always been a pain the ass for me to use. But the pronterface should help, If you knew it FUCKING existed!
file>Preferences>Printing Window Type
there you go, but i'll still stick with repetier-host and slic3r
I know about pronterface and slic3r but prefer cura.
Under Printing window type I only have basic option so it must be a plug in of type.
Anyone knows how to fix this problems when exporting to STL from Design spark (circles are low resolution ) and Inventor ( objects become very small) ?
is it actually printing circles like that or is just the representation shaped that way?
the one for inventor looks like it was done in inches then imported as mm.
Increase size by 1000% in slicer
it actually print like that
is this problem only with inventor, because other programs scale fine.
well thats odd.
It also happens with .dae files exported from sketchup
ok fixed it
There is a option menu when you save as and export to stl. Where you can change resolution
>not making it fixed to super high resolution all the time.
why is that option even there?
I slice with Cura and print with Pronterface.
well it's not exactly a plugin, but maybe if you install pronterface or python it'll just show up.
for inventor, when you export, after changing the filetype to stl, click the options button and change it to millimeter.
There was a time when the file size was important. Even today you might run into problems while transferring huge files.
So if i want to build my self a 3d printer ( not a kit) what board would you recommend.
I see the whole ramps 1.4 kit (with LCD mega board included) go for $30 eBay. Is this a good buy? Are there other boards that offer better value.
Also are this boards reusable for quad copters or other fun projects.
RAMPS is like a sheild for the ardunio, so no, that's geared for 3d printing. The ardunio mega you pair with it can be used however you want though
That what though. Since mega and ramps boards are separated you can use mega board for other things or upgrade other things. Which isn't. An option if both boards are merged in one board like with some other printers.
If holes come out to small an outer dimensions to big should I lower the feed rate? Printing PLA with 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 layer night. A 20mm hole is about 0.05 to 0.1mm to small and outer size is about the same to big
Adjust the scale and reslice, not the feed rate IMO.
What scale? You mean re calibrate x and y axis?
I kind of have an idea what hes saying. Its not about scale though. You arent accounting for ooze. When it lays down the layer it has a little bit of squish out to the sides. Slowing the feed rate slightly will lay a slightly smaller line of plastic. Or adjust for it in your design program by making insides of holes .01 mm larger and the outsides of objects slightly smaller too.
I think you're right. Another option is to scale it so the outer dimensions are correct and drill the holes out.
I got the stl file of this LM8UU linear bearing from the thingiverse so I can't change the actual medel in inventor. the problem is the bed the bed where the bearing is.
here is the bearing holder
If I scale it in slicer the centers of the holes won't be on the same place any more.
that is what I was thinking.
Hmm why is there such a difference in temperature between nozzle and bed. The printer has been off for 20h.
I've was fighting this problem for a while. What you need to do is fine tune your steps.
In short, you probably need to reduce your E steps and increase your X and Y steps
take a look at this. you print a model at 95% infill and adjust your steps on the fly till you have fine lines in the infill
I agree that reaming out holes will be the most accurate, but I was getting holes .015" undersized (actually .1mm is about .003", that's probably as close as you can expect to print, try making a fitted parts test print)
that is what I'm doing now. I'm printing a 20mm high cube. First 10mm will be with 100% feed. The last 10mm will be with 94% feed.
Ok test print done. The bottom 10mm was done at 100% feed rate and the outer dimensions are 20.13 +- 0.01
The top part of the cube was done at 94% feed rate and the outer dimensions are 20.02 +-0.02
The walls are about 1.65 +0.02 (target was 1.6)
Also the outer dimensions are off because of corners. If I measure the width in the middle, it is pretty much on target.
we need a new thread
was it in the sunlight? aluminum plate with large surface area could heat up slightly in the sun
was it in the sunlight? aluminum plate with large surface area could heat up slightly in the sun
btw, how did you get your LCD to turn purple? mine is blue
its blue now
new thread is up