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/3/ - 3DCG

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I want to make waifu plastic pvc crap.

So I have several questions:

Should I first learn traditional clay shit before doing zbrush?
Are anime figures done by hand instead of being 3D printed? (Why)
It's 3D software used only for mechanical gear?
Does it take to make the prototype a full year or half a year before making some molds?
What materials and process do the molds use?
How they mass produce that crap?
I don't know what it is about Danny Choo but he just comes off as extremely unlikeable for some reason.

You should just use zbrush. You can get pretty good 3D prints nowadays.

Seeing as you don't know any clay sculpting it would be best just to do zbrush sculpting as you can learn it more quickly.

The technical stuff isn't really hard. 3D printing is really easy. Not being completely garbage at sculpting is the hard part.

Since weeb shit is all flat surface area and hardly any detail it's very suitable for 3d printing.

Go to IC and download the how to make anime figures book in the artbook topic.
Re: Clay
It can only help, especially if you're good with your hands (and know what you're doing. If not, then just do it digitally and work from there. Clay sculpting can be a good and quick reference for a digital model.

Re: Production
Figures are injection molded as parts, then assembled into complete figures. Hair, for instance, is often done as a separate part then fused or glued into the core figure. There is almost always a gaping seam in the hair.

Painting is done by hand, but incrementally in stations. Decals are stamped on, like eyes.

Re: 3D printing
3D printing materials are generally very poor in quality, and the printers themselves are very slow and very expensive. Injection molding, by contrast, is much cheaper, simpler, and doesn't require a plastic needs to be extruded through a pinhole.

Actually producing a figure can take a while. It's half sculpting, half setting up a production chain and spooling up a factory.

Look into Garage Kits (not resin kits). There is a community of amateurs that build custom figures.

If you've ever followed Warhammer, you'll notice that a lot of custom models and poses are achieved using putty. It takes a while, and has very low output numbers (you're molding one thing at a time. If you were interested in mass production, you could presumably make a vacuum seal mold and use that to transition into a real mold.


Danny Choo went off the deep end when he got into dolfies. Christ.
More stuff:

You'll also find some production prototypes on the mikatan blog
/3/ should be renamed to "VR & Porn"

Except if you post porn you are banned.
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>Implying mods on /3/
There are, just the other day the pro-trump thread received some trimming >>524296 You can still see some evidence of that in it. And A week ago someone was removed for positing a centaur anus/vagina sculpt.
Yeah the sjwtard shitter got btfo and got his posts deleted. It's a shame that porn is being deleted as well though
That /pol/tard who kept fantasizing about having sexual liaisons with the parents of the other anons, "cucking" he called it, got taken down too tho.
The mod just seems to be politically naive in leaving that thread alive, not taking an intentional right wing stance as you seem to imply.
Nope. Its the sjwtard who made the thread about him getting triggered about a simple coin who got rightfully banned. OP and the coinmaker are still there producing stuff. and it wouldn't be a shitstorm if the SJWtards like that one didn't felt entitled to invade every thread they see with SJW-tier memes, and it would have been just another /3/ thread.
majority of japs on twitter use Zbrush for 3d printing, but theres also alot of people using real clay
>a shitstorm
We where like 2 people arguing on the internet, if that is a storm for you, fine.

>getting triggered about a simple coin who got rightfully banned
Nobody got banned anon.

>SJWtards like that one didn't felt entitled to invade every thread they see with SJW-tier memes

As I recall you felt entitled to go on about how you'd vote Trump because 'niggers and faggots' hated him.
How is that not using 'meme' type language just looking to spark controversy.
If you go on like that and keep finding these 'SJW's' everywhere perhaps it's just because you gravitate towards being a neo nazi cunt?
Food for thought.

I see that you're a SJWtard yourself trying to damage control. The very second post is is your fellow SJWtards trying to stir shit up with anti-trump posts which has nothing to do with 3d modelling or anything related to OPs subject. Only after 1 post some SJWtard felt entitled to bitch about pol out of nowhere just because he heard the name Trump. You can go check the thread to see how your post is a straight up lie.

The rest of the discussion is a non-SJW productive thread where people are trying to model a coin. SJWtards bitching about some board on 4chan are ironically unaware that they are not welcome at 4chan in the first place.
>SJW this, SJW that, SJW, SJW? well SJW!... SJEW!!11

/pol/ is that way anon ---------->
>/pol/ this /pol/ that bla bla bla
Welcome to 4chan. Now back to your shithole SJWtard
Tell you what, how's this anon: I go back to my tumbloring /r/edtube or wherever it is we SJW's hang out.
And you go back to your siegheiloring /pol/ bro's and we both respect the sanctity of /3/.

Surely we can go on about social justice and purification of the aryan genome and stuff somewhere else?
Or you can just shut the fuck up and stop bitching and no one will have to suffer your autism. Remember this all started because a few sjwtards started crying about Trump and pol in a thread that wasn't about trumps politics, views, conservatives or pol itself. Any thread from any board can turn into shit if people start discussing the politics side of things. Avoiding that will solve the problem.
>Or you can just shut the fuck up and stop bitching and no one will have to suffer your autism.

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This guy has everything you need to know :

There are lots of twitters of other sculptors posting their works at wonfes you can check too.

DLP Printer can be very cheap if you build one yourself, it's simpler than FDM but still requires some knowledge.

The 3D printed part can be used to make mold and cast in better suited resin or plastic.

You can also go traditional and use wax, sculpey or other polymer.

I'm quite interested myseld so I thought I'd share some findings.
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Also, 3D prints are certainly not poor quality.
There are differents types of 3D printers.
FDM are good for rapid prototyping but not so accurate.
SLA printer can do pic related.
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You're certainly correct; good 3D printers can achieve good results.

Though, 3D printers do have their hiccups, and you certainly wouldn't rely on them for production. Pic related; a consumer-grade extrusion printer can fail spectacularly, and even when they perform well, there is a lot of room for improvement.

The image you posted is a great example of the potential that you can get out of a much more professional grade SLA printer, but it doesn't show the necessary supports and additional finishing like sanding that went into the model before it was showcased.
Obviously you need finishing once the print is done. Just as molds.
As I said, FDM printer won't do you very good for artistic projects, it's better for prototyping, industrial designs, etc..
SLA is getting increasingly used for figures and documentation and tutorials are common nowadays.
The cost of the resins and the comunity has helped make this accessible even to hobbyists.
Check the 3D prints on the Zbrush forums and professionals sculptors advices, you'll see industry has been making the shift for a while now.
I'm willing to retract my earlier statement; 3D printers do seem to have come a long way since my last check.
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And I hope it'll keep going!
I had a FDM printer and got quite disapointed by the result, I understand what you meant. But these past years SLA and particularly DLP printers have gotten quite popular. They are crazy easy to build compared to FDM since you're using only 1 axis, and the DLP ones make 1 layer at a time. Some people have gotten very fast impression after some research, like this guy : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxhUjPmxrP0
Since it uses light as curing process for the resin, the detail can go under 5 microns, and accuracy isn't much of a problem since it uses almost no mechanical movement.
Did it really print that 5 micron pineapple with the terminator printer ? Coz the video looks like the result is blobby as fuck with all details destroyed by smoothing.
No, this pic is from the solus printer.
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Also I feel like one of the annoying issues is the support lines that they use for the printer. It requires cleaning up which leave sharp pointy artifacts and if your model has distant parts at the top which can cause them to bend apart while printer which screws up the print.

On the other hand, there are printers that can print that support material with another substance, which simply dissolves in a liquid, so that you don't have to go through removing the supports. Although the high-def desktop printers go up to ridiculous prices around 4-5K. It's way too much for any of us to buy and use for hobby purposes.

Would you know any affordable printers that can go maybe about 50 microns with a decent print area ?
I have a DIY prusai3. Print quality is pretty much what you have in your image. Im an industrial designer so quick prototypes are my thing. The printer was 200 dollars. I often use this little dremel soldering iron multi tool to heat blast the piece. works similar to acetone vapour but works for pla and tpe. You can get decent finishes on flat surfaces.

I have worked with a projet something or other worth 60k. now that thing was old school fdm. used resin and a removable wax. You could get great quality with that. Still needed sanding but I've seen people get glass finish on those prints.

Just have to wait until the sla printers fall under 500 dollars.
You can get SLA for less than 500$ if you build it yourself. It's way easier than FDM but it's still some time investment though.

Nice resources here : http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/
>Figures are injection molded as parts, then assembled into complete figures.
Depends on production run. 'Garage' kits, and short production runs, are done with resin casting rather than injection moulding.
It's mainly down to startup cost: even a cheese-grade aluminium injection mould is going to run to several $thousand to cut, and you;d better hope it works right the first time because cutting a revision will cost $xxxx again.
Casting resin means you need at least one master model to cut into parts (hand-sculpted or 3D printed), and a bucket of two-part silicone.

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