[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k] [s4s] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/3/


File: s-l1000.jpg (142.42 KB, 1000x750)
142.42 KB
142.42 KB JPG
I want to get 3d printer, mainly for project of mine (designing headphones from scratch using maya for model parts). And I have no idea what makes good 3d printer and what does not.

Can I get good one for £350+-? If so which one? Are plastic for all 3d printers the same?
Help newb out.

pic somewhat related.
>>
>>495046
The answer is no, if you want good quality that will last long just buy headphones or a 3d printer that isn't FDM
try SLA or SLS but they're all expensive as fuck
>>
>>495046
There's a guy on Instructables who's selling kits you put together that prints 6x6x9 (inches, sorry for amerifag measurements) area. He only wants $250 for the kit, and it's getting pretty nice reviews. But that's only if you're willing to do the labor and build it yourself.

But yeah, this is the reason I took up Blender too. I just wanted to create things and print them.
>>
I could get a lot of uses from 3d printer, uni related + personal projects etc.
>>
I'd like to print my own 3D Gundam models kit. I could be modeling whole new mechs and assemble them after wards.
>>
>>495173
>the reason I took up Blender too. I just wanted to create things and print them

Modeling things that are printable is another level altogether. Don't expect to just model a thing and then send it to a printer without knowing the basics of what that printer can and cannot do.
>>
>>495046

Tiko 3d printer, 180$

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uk-l7jfWVoI
>>
>>495445


Looks good, too good to be true. Might hold on for some reviews before I even remotely pull the trigger.
>>
>>495445
looks like a very tiny print area...
>>
>>495445
I think that $180 might only be for kickstarter backers. also they did an AMA on reddit and they're kind of douchebags
>>
>>495445
That thing is timing belt as rack retarded.
>>
>>495445
Why do they call it Tiko?
>>
>>495445
>that video

THIS SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY
>>
>>496719
>HEAVY
>OVER
>COMP
>LICA
>TED
>UNRELIABLE

>CALI
>BRA
>TING

>ONE
>SOLID
>PIECE

>U
>NI
>BODY

>only $179
>Yup
>1
>7
>9

God that's so fucking annoying
>>
>>495046
>Can I get a good one for ~$550
Short answer: no. Long answer: you can probably find a pretty okay one for that amount, but it'll most likely have to be a bit old and used (not that that's terrible, but it's something to consider)

>If so, which one?
That's up to you.

>Are plastics for all 3D printers the same?
No. For lower-quality printers, you'll most likely be using PLA, but for higher-quality, you'll probably be using ABS. It really comes down to the manufacturer, though.
>>
>>497380
You sound just credible enough but your info is almost all wrong

>it'll be old and used
Not really. That may be true for plug n play types but even those have been decreasing in price. Kits are definitely the best bang for your buck and for $500 you can get a pretty decent one.

>higher-quality printers use ABS
Neither are considered particularly high-end or exotic. Anyone who says you can print one but not the other is yanking your chain.

>depends on the manufacturer
No, it depends on your hotend. PTFE liners are usually the limiting factor in cheaper hotends because those can't go above 245 °C. All-metal hotends can get hotter for filaments like nylon.

>>495046
All filaments are not the same.

PLA is pretty friendly for beginners especially since you can actively cool it for faster print times.

ABS doesn't get stringy like PLA and can be vapor-treated for a nice finish. It's a bit touchy since rapid cooling can warp or separate layers.

Nylon has excellent layer cohesion and a low friction coefficient. Unfortunately, it warps like ABS and requires an all metal hotend.

PVA (as in school glue) can be dissolved in water so it's best suited as support material.

Ninjaflex is rubbery. That's all I know about it, really.

There are more but I don't know much about them and I don't feel like looking them up.
>>
>>>/diy/885561
>>
>>495445
bbut muh heated bed
>>
>printing models made in Maya
>250 quid

Don't bother, a decent printer will run you 500 or more, plus Maya models print like shit. You should use AutoCAD to create good models for printing.
>>
>>498815
>Maya models print like shit
As long as it's manifold, mostly anything will print regardless of where it was made.
>>
>>498815
>You should use AutoCAD to create good models for printing.

jesus, i thought i was the only one, never really bothered learning anything else since i just use autocad for 2d drafting at work
>>
>>498815
>Maya models print like shit
kek.
That's not Maya's fault, that's noob modeler's fault. Maya has NURBS functionality just like any CAD software. Thus giving you those perfectly smooth curvatures for your print head to follow along.
But really, all you have to do is smooth your model to a higher poly-density than your print-head can do in resolution and any poly-model will look just as good as a CAD/Nurbs model.
>>
File: Retawd.jpg (33.75 KB, 493x342)
33.75 KB
33.75 KB JPG
>>495046
Why the fuck would you use Maya for that? You dumb faggot
>>
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Full-Acylic-Upgraded-Prusa-i3-3d-Printer-DIY-kit-P802-High-Precision-Reprap-Bowden-extruder-single/32340184418.html?spm=2114.01010108.3.1.xjdl5V&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2_79_78_77_91_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_9


Im about the purchase this as my first printer. worse comes to worst, most pieces will work, few replacements and I havent blown twice the money necessary to get a cheap starter
>>
>>502035
Get something without an acrylic frame. Even wood is better.
>>
>>502085
I hear the later 8mm acrylic frames arent problematic.
>>
I have a Rostock Max V2. Stock it does a good job but if you put third party parts on like I have it does fantastic. Its a kit from SeeMeCnC.. and no I don't work for them. When I got mine it was about 900$, I think its around 1000$ now.
>>
Too many artists try to design shit to print and then too many people try to recreate their work, only to find out that actually printing it out is a huge fucking pain in the ass.
Do yourself a favor OP, and learn yourself some mechanical engineering.
Even if it's through trial and error, you should prioritize a design that's easy to print, and easy to put together over anything else.



Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.